I just got some really awesome pictures from Clint by email - got to share them with you before we begin the trip down the Atchafalaya. These are both of "Help Me Rhonda" that in my opinion are truly breathtaking. When you make a trip like this, you are continually reminded of God's greatness and the beautiful world that He gave us. Too often we fail to take time to realize and apppreciate it.
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Galveston Trip, Mississippi River to Atchafalaya River
After all the stresses at Natchez, the next day was a welcome reprieve. The last miles on the Mississippi River were beautiful. In the picture below, we're approaching the exit from the Mississippi to the Atchafalaya.
Did I mention yet how nice it was to be off of the "Mighty Mississippi" for the much calmer Atchafalaya? We coordinated with Terrell Services to dock at one of their barges (below).
The barge was a bit dirty so Linda got into her cleaning and sweeping mode so we would not track stuff off of the barge to the boats. It was truly a great day, looking forward to new territories tomorrow.

Galveston Trip, Mississippi River, Vicksburg to Natchez
After a wonderful day from Greenville to Vicksburg and all things mechanical working now, we were anticipating another great day. We had even gotten word of another commercial stop, this one in Natchez (actually on the other side of the river in Louisiana), with the added benefit of fuel! (There are some things you just don't pass up when traveling on the rivers, especially the Mississippi - fuel, food, and laundry facilities). We had called the fuel company and the barge company on Friday to get the details lined up. The commercial facility was right on the river, rather than a protected harbor, but we would be docking on the inside of their barge that served as their fuel dock which would provide some protection from the barge traffic's wakes - "just call about an hour out." Only about 60 miles downriver and we would have a nice afternoon, refuel, attend church on Sunday morning, wait out a front moving through and leave on Monday. There was no more planning that we could have done, everything was set. Just one problem - the folks in the office that we coordinated with on Friday never told the Saturday crews of the plans. When we called about an hour out on Saturday, we got the above bad news, and it was worse than expected. A crane crew that operated off of a barge was using the fuel dock's location for repairs, and the fuel dock (our protected home for the next 2 days) was not even there. So, we're stuck on the Mississippi River with no protection, evening is approaching, and we have nowhere to go without traveling 50 to 60 miles. With the current roaring, they managed to slip "Help Me Rhonda" in between some of their other tow boats and the bank - it was a big deal and a very difficult docking, but we made it (below). I'll explain the fuel truck and the lines later.
There was still no room or protection for "Opus One" and after much persuasion, I was able to convince the captain on duty that we needed some cooperation getting them taken care of - "My friends are out there on their own, relying on me for any plans we make, and we need some help." He finally called the foreman on his day off who came in with a smile on his face and said "not to worry," he would have us situated shortly. The crane barge had to move, the foreman went and retrieved the fuel barge, put it back in place, and all was well again - another example of how most people are eager to help on the water. I have to admit, this was the most tense and serious event of the trip - I was seriously concerned for Clint and Linda's safety that night. No place to dock, nighttime approaching, and a front headed our way. When all was settled, we had about 30 minutes of daylight left and the front was approaching. Here's a shot of the fuel dock, "Opus One" docked inside, and the fuel truck pumping fuel on Sunday.Because of the strong current, shallow water, and close proximity to the bank, it was a serious struggle to get "Help Me Rhonda" out on Monday morning without running aground on the bank or into the fuel barge, but after about 45 minutes of working lots of lines by hand and gradually getting her into a position where we could release her and control it, we were off and running for our last day on the Mississippi.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Galveston Trip, Mississippi River, Greenville to Vicksburg
Day 10 was a gorgeous day. We made 108 miles downstream with lots of sandy beaches and many barges. As I noted previously, these are huge. As best we could determine, the largest seem to be 6 barges wide and 7 deep for a total of 42. The one below is 5 deep and 8 wide.
Early in the day, the Greenville, MS bridge was pretty impressive also (below).
Look closely, here's Clint and Linda between 2 barges.
Another view from close-up front.
Rhonda and Linda ready for dinner.
Dinner at "Rusty's" was a short walk to town. All in all, a very good day.
Galveston Trip, Leaving The Arkansas River for the Mississippi River to Greenville Yacht Club
In case you are not good with math, this is Day 8 of our trip and we have not even gotten off of the Arkansas River yet! But the day was a good one with lots of changes ahead. The lower stretch of the AR River is mile after mile of sandy beaches.
For those unfamiliar with how the Arkansas River transitions to the Mississippi River, a man-made "ditch," the Arkansas Post Canal (below), was built to connect the Arkansas with the White River which then flows directly into the Mississippi.
The Mississippi River is a whole different animal than most rivers - it's called the "Mighty Mississippi" for a reason. When it's calm, it is a beautiful sight to see - you would be surprised at all the sandy beaches there also plus lots of farmland and pastures. But when it's rocking and rolling, it can be very unforgiving. The water levels can vary as much as fifty feet, the current can reach 5 to 7 miles per hour, and the water can get very rough, especially when the wind is opposing the direction of the water flow. The barges are huge and create large wakes. There are almost no marinas and little help for boats in trouble. It is definitely geared for commercial activity rather than recreational.
There are few good anchorages, so we have historically looked for protected "slack-water" harbors where the cuts off of the river run "upstream" and have no current through them. The barge companies use these harbors to sort out their loads and perform repairs and maintenance on their equipment. The first one available for us was at Rosedale Harbor. We had contacted them in advance and had approval to dock at one of their barges (below).
On Day 9, we continued down the Mississippi to the only marina and one of two fuel stops available in the stretch of the river we were traveling - Greenville, MS. It is actually a private yacht club, located next door to one of the many floating casinos on the river. Their dock fees for the night were exhorbitant, $3.25 per boat-foot per night (normal is 50 cents to $1 per foot). They offer almost no help and we complained a lot. They finally conceded that they charge those high prices to discourage boats from stopping there. That is certainly their option but they should tell you that up front so you are not expecting anything for that high price. Rhonda's notes in our daily log says "Marina does not want our business and they go out of their way to prove it!" Just as we had gotten settled and docked for the night, a 61-foot Hatteras arrived for fuel also. So, we had to move "Help Me Rhonda" for them to access the fuel dock. On a positive note, their fuel was the cheapest of the trip at $2.69/gallon, we were secure for the night, at a nice and quiet location, with shorepower, and had a great meal next door at the casino.
Don't forget that the hydraulics were still not working - Harold had joined us again to work on that problem utilizing the parts Clint had shipped to the yacht club. Tomorrow, Vicksburg, MS with hydraulic steering to boot!
There are few good anchorages, so we have historically looked for protected "slack-water" harbors where the cuts off of the river run "upstream" and have no current through them. The barge companies use these harbors to sort out their loads and perform repairs and maintenance on their equipment. The first one available for us was at Rosedale Harbor. We had contacted them in advance and had approval to dock at one of their barges (below).
Don't forget that the hydraulics were still not working - Harold had joined us again to work on that problem utilizing the parts Clint had shipped to the yacht club. Tomorrow, Vicksburg, MS with hydraulic steering to boot!
Galveston Trip, Arkansas River, Russellville to Pine Bluff
After such a pleasant day from Van Buren to Russellville, we were all expecting a similar run to Little Rock on Day 4. The weather forecast was good and the Dardanelle Lock was open. So we were off to a good start. We departed Russellville at daybreak and before we got a few hundred feet away from the dock, Clint checked in on the radio and said, "We need to go back to the dock, I've lost my steering hydraulics." Within a few minutes of returning to the dock, "Opus One's" generator quit also, no idea what was up with that. Clint caught a ride into town to try to buy more hydraulic fluid - he got some, but not exactly what was recommended. After a couple of hours and no improvements with the mechanical issues, we decided our best bet was to get to Little Rock where we would probably get the best mechanics. No generator is not a big problem unless we needed to anchor out. Driving a twin engine boat without hydraulics is not a problem at slow speeds, but a much bigger deal at cruise speed and very tiring. But hey, Clint is in the trucking business and he has some tough trucking stories to tell of his early days in the business. He could handle it. Regardless, that was our best bet at that point and off we went. Once we got through Dardanelle L&D, we decided "Opus One" should forge ahead at their higher cruise speed in hopes they would make Little Rock before dark. Rhonda and I would be OK in the dark with a little more experience in that regard. "Opus One" made good time and got about 30 minutes ahead of us when they reached Lock #9. We had also called Lock #9 so the lockmaster would understand that "Opus One" had mechanical problems and needed to get on through the lock. To everyone's surprise, he would not let "Opus One" through on its own and made them wait for us. Quite frankly, the lockmaster was very rude to all of us at the lock and seemed to have no interest whatsoever in assisting us with our plan.
By the time we got through the lock, there was no way we could make Little Rock without having to travel a long distance in the dark. So, we began to work on plan C. I called the lockmaster at L&D #8, also known as Toad Suck Ferry L&D, explained our situation, and asked if he could work something out for us to possibly dock somewhere at the lock. He was most helpful and gave us the phone numbers for 3 paint crews that had equipment docked there. The first crew we called was glad to help, gave us permission to dock at one of their barges, and even had extension cords and a couple of heaters waiting for us to use. They offered a ride to WalMart if we needed anything, also their construction trailer and their towboat as an option if we got too cold during the night as the forecast was for 20-degree temps that night. This is the kind of treatment boaters usually get when experiencing problems. The lockmaster at L&D #9 was definitely the exception to that rule.
So here we are, all settled in with the "Cathy J" paint crew's 100-ton barge. We got our heaters plugged in and settled in for the night. About 10 PM, Rhonda and I decided it was getting a bit chilly in the boat. Sure enough, we had thrown the breaker at "Cathy J's" dock and the breaker box was padlocked. So, you guessed it, we endured the 20-degree temps with no electric, and no generator on "Opus One." With the generator trouble "HMR" had at Van Buren, I was a little hesitant to run ours all night also. You can be sure we were ready to get up and running ASAP the next morning and the "Cathy J" barge locked through with us.
We arrived at Little Rock Yacht Club just after 10 AM. Shorepower is a wonderful thing when you are cold! I had called friends of ours there the day before (Gary and Colleen Barger) and Gary had recommended 3 different generator mechanics. One of those was on the boat after church, diagnosed the problem, and would need to get parts on Monday morning to complete the repair. To address the hydraulic issue, Clint had Harold Butler, mechanic from Grand Lake, drive down to work on that. We refueled and one of the LRYC full-time liveaboards loaned us a car as long as we needed it. So, we resigned ourselves to another day at Little Rock, made some trips to town for supplies, laundry, and a bit of WiFi at Starbucks. The generator was repaired on Monday, ran great, and parts were ordered for the hydraulic problem. Clint ordered two sets, one to be sent to Pine Bluff and another to Greenville, MS, not knowing exactly what our schedule would be the next couple of days.
We got ready to depart on Tuesday morning, and shortly thereafter "Opus One's" generator quit again. Yes, I'm not kidding. We found that the impeller had gone bad, changed it, but never could get the water flow we were expecting (probably bits and pieces of the impeller blocking the flow throughout the system). Clint called the mechanic and he agreed to meet us at the small floating dock in downtown Little Rock (below).
At this point, Rhonda and I had to get moving soon or we would not be able to make Pine Bluff before dark. So, we all agreed "HMR" would forge ahead and "Opus One" would catch up later after the generator was repaired (again). Here are a few parting shots of Little Rock.
Downtown Area
Downtown Bridges
Distant View
Southwest Airlines on final for Little Rock Airport with I-440 in distance
But the day was not over. Rhonda and I made it into Island Harbor Marina at Pine Bluff just fine, but by the time "Opus One" was repaired and underway again, there was no way she would make it before dark. We coordinated with the lockmaster at the L&D above Pine Bluff for "Opus One" to dock there for the night but Clint decided to continue for Pine Bluff. To quote Clint later - "when it got dark, it got dark." We coached them down the river by radio and had spotlights shining from the docks to help guide them in. They made it fine but needless to say, we were all tired at the end of the day. To top the day off for me, I decided to use the ship store's facilities for a long hot shower. It was very hot but about the time I got all lathered up, the hot water disappeared almost immediately. It was another of the twenty-ish temperature nights so I had to make a mad dash from the ship store to the boat to finish my shower. When it rains, it pours. Maybe tomorrow would be a better day.
Now before you go thinking it's all bad, just remember we are on the water, and take a look at the pictures again - beautiful blue skies, and with little rain for the past few months, the Arkansas River was as docile as we had ever seen her. Pretty nice traveling conditions - we can work through the obstacles.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Galveston Trip, Arkansas River, Muskogee to Russellville
Rhonda and I have decided to retire again and initially relocate to the Gulf Coast. We are leaving some wonderful friends in Muskogee, both from our church and the marina. This is always tough leaving friends and we will also miss managing the marina at Three Forks Harbor, but are looking forward to new horizons and adventures in the days ahead. We are also excited about being close to the kids (the oldest son, Adam, and daughter-in-law, Jennifer) and grand-kids again, now in Austin, TX, as well as more freedom to travel and to visit family and friends back in AL, SC, and FL. The marina business does limit those possibilities as a 24/7/365 operation. Clint and Linda Bulkley, tenants and friends from the marina are traveling with us in their 46' Silverton, "Opus One."
I'm actually writing the blog after-the-fact. We had very little WiFi coverage and not much time to spend on maintaining the blog on a daily basis. We had many days of very cold weather (well duh, it is December) which is tiring, and some mechanical issues that made some of the days very long also. We traveled 19 days through 19 locks for a total of 1133 miles on the Arkansas River, Mississippi River, Atchafalaya River, and the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GIWW). Enough of that general stuff - let's get moving and show you some pics.
We departed very early from Three Forks Harbor on Wednesday, December 1, and encountered pretty dense fog about 4 miles downstream. We were familiar enough with this stretch of the river to continue in the fog, utilizing our radar to keep a check on the shoreline, buoys, and any other traffic. The picture below is after we got out of the fog and just before the beautiful sunrise that follows it.
We had hoped to make 92 miles and 3 locks to Fort Smith the 1st day, but we encountered a 3-hour delay at the second lock and had to duck into Applegate Marina in Sallisaw, OK. The advantage to this was getting to enjoy another meal at the Catfish Hole Restaurant as we have done on many trips in the past.
Day 2 was planned as an "easy" day with time to spare at WildCat Marina in Van Buren (Ft. Smith). Former tenants at Three Forks, Leroy and Beverly Foster, had relocated there recently on their way downstream aboard their Trojan, "Living the Dream," so we planned dinner with them. We arrived at 12:30 PM and then realized our generator was not running correctly and "Opus One" had a water leak in the fresh-water pump. So much for a nice easy day, at least for the guys. While the ladies enjoyed a sight-seeing walk in Van Buren, including a visit to The Fudge Shop, the men got busy with repairs. Our generator has a history of blowing a capacitor so I changed it first - no luck. Moved on to other possibilities like fuel filters - changed it, no luck again. Turned out to be air in the fuel line which is a simple matter of bleeding that out of the line. The only problem is the 5 things you have to take off to get to the bleeder plug. You also have to put those 5 things back on when you finish! Leroy took Clint to several hardware stores to find the parts he needed and Clint rebuilt all the plumbing for his water pump. Both repairs were successful and we departed early Friday morning for Russellville, AR.
It was a cold 30 degrees when we left and "Opus One" has no lower helm or any isinglass protection from the cold at the upper helm. Did I mention it was an even colder 25 degrees when we departed the 1st day? So, Clint and Linda are obviously tougher than me and Rhonda, as they endured the cold all day for the 92-mile run. It actually reached 60 degrees but we still felt bad for Clint and Linda. It was an uneventful (as in no trouble) and beautiful day and we had time for a walk at the state park that evening. Here's another nice sunrise leaving Van Buren. You can see the frost on the top of the boat.
"Help Me Rhonda" and "Opus One" Docked at Russellville State Park Transient Docks
It was hard to decide which of the sunset pics to post, but here are 2 favorites.
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